Thanks for the feedback!

I’m pretty happy with the transparencies tbh. Although on mine, there seems to be two sides, one that gives a fuzzy dirty effect with a lot of stray toner around the actual print (looks like static), and the other side that gives perfectly crisp prints. Unfortunately I can’t really tell the sides apart.

Apart from that small speck of dust that prevented the transfer at the top left of the logo, the sheet came out perfectly clean, the totality of the toner was transferred to the dial. For PCB transfers where you could probably keep the sheet intact (I had to cut mine to fit between the applied indices), that would also mean the sheet would be almost indefinitely reusable.

Thanks <3

If you can clamp a whole PCB on the bed, that’s a perfect application ;)

Here you go ;) https://lemm.ee/post/35636122

I 100% agree with you, a professionally made dial is a work of art and should be absolutely perfect at any magnification. This is just a fun, cheap summer watch project for my own enjoyment ;)

The best looking alternative would have been to have the logo made by electroforming. They look perfect and very professional. Unfortunately the MOQs are usually quite large and therefore expensive, I couldn’t justify spending half the price of this project just on a logo (even if I had enough spare logos for several lifetimes).

Ah perfect timing indeed.

The key takeaway indeed matches yours: it’s not a Voron despite being heavily inspired by it, there are some annoyances but at this price point it’s forgivable and most of them seem to have workarounds (someone in the comments suggested letting the machine fully soak heat before performing Z-offset calibration), the open-source nature might bring a lot of third-party upgrades in the future.

Also, the reviewer’s unit has some abnormal wear on the belts. Does it match your experience?

All in all, it seems to be a decent budget CoreXY printer with a very large volume at 1/3 the price of an LDO Voron kit + PIF parts, with a much quicker assembly but some potential pitfalls.

If this eventually becomes the Ender 3 of CoreXY printers that can be frankensteined into a a much higher quality printer over time, I’m all for it.

Than you so much for such a detailed analysis!

For reference, I’ve had a (heavily modded) Creality Ender 3 V2 for a few years, and I’ve hit a limit in terms of speed and quality.

The filament path between the extruder and hotend is poorly-constrained, making it a pain to load The auto-z calibration is often just a smidge off It uses a custom nozzle/heater

If it’s possible to install a Stealthburner instead of the standard extruder/hotend combo, it might solve most of these issues. Maybe some people are working on a V6 or Mk8 style hotend (I have a metric fuckton of Mk8 nozzles laying around)…

The fans are absurdly loud. All of them.

OK Noctua upgrades then. Compared to an already absurdly loud Ender 3, is it worse?

The mainboard is effectively a BTT CB1 and Fystec Cheetah on a single board Their software customizations are of dubious quality

Would a Voron-style mainboard + RPi + standard Klipper solve these issues or are there fundamental incompatibilities?

Thanks!

BallisticNG. Incredible WipEout homage, Linux native, VR compatible, runs locked at 60fps on Deck. Fun tracks, cool ships, nice lore. Physics and mechanics are by default more geared towards classic PSX games (1, 2097, 3), with “modern” physics and mechanics (Pure/Pulse/HD with absorb, barrel roll etc.) getting an overhaul in the next version.

Best “Classic WipEout” homage I ever played.

Vita3k + WipEout 2048 + HD DLC + Fury DLC = almost Omega Collection on PC 🤣

Runs great on Steam Deck too.

BallisticNG

Hey fellow WipEout junkie 👋

You and me brother.

Which machine did you choose? I went for the Lelit Bianca, never regretted it.

Go AMD. The open-source drivers already provide the best performance compared to the closed-source ones, and are included in the kernel and Mesa, which means the cards will work out of the box. For the best performance and latest drivers and optimizations you should switch to a distro with more up to date packages than Debian if you plan on buying a current gen card tho. For example, Fedora is a very good mix between working OOTB, ease of use and bleeding-edge packages.

nVidia is… difficult. The open-source drivers are getting better but are still way behind closed-source drivers, and each closed-source drivers version only works with a single kernel version. It might work OK as long as the drivers and kernel are kept in sync (I think Pop! or Nobara have nVidia specific versions for this reason), but otherwise each kernel upgrade is a risk. Plus nVidia drivers are basically shit with Wayland and cause a ton of issues.

Intel has a good track record with iGPUs so discrete cards should be as trivial to use as AMD ones, if more at the entry-level performance-wise.

True coffee experts chew the beans raw and let saliva enzymes digest the starches.

I learned this week-end that Vita3k runs great on the Deck and that game compatibility has tremendously advanced, so I’m doing WipEout 2048 right now :D

Ubuntu’s version of Gnome is heavily modified to look and feel like their old Unity DE though. Vanilla Gnome like in Fedora or Arch is a vastly different experience.

Yeah there’s no confusion in French because “étage” literally means “floor above ground”, so calling the ground floor an “étage” makes no sense. It’s called “rez-de-chaussée” (“at street level”) or RDC for short. Same as “sous-sol” (“under-ground”).

I concur with the person above. I have a 4yo QcK Edge mat that still looks and feels almost new. If you thoroughly soak and clean them when they start to get grimy they’ll keep their properties for a very long time.

I mean, almost all coffee that’s not freshly ground and brewed in a perfectly clean machine is rancid anyway. I know people who actually associate this taste with coffee itself, and won’t enjoy a cup until their moka pot has been “properly seasoned”.

Your grandma’s drip coffee? Rancid. From the vending machine at work or in a gas station? Rancid. Every single preground package at the store? Rancid. From your brother-in-law’s $2k bean-to-cup machine? You guessed it, rancid. The 10yo nespresso you salvaged from a friend to bring at your desk? Boy you don’t wanna know how much crap gets trapped inside over the years.

Tons of oils. And the darker they’re roasted, the more the oils come out and get exposed to oxygen and get rancid. Once you identify the smell, you can’t unsmell it. These oils stick to everything, especially plastic coffee drippers.

The “break room smell” I’m referring to is the lingering, heavy, overpowering stink of rancid coffee clinging to everything in a break room where the 20-year-old company dripper have gurgles along every morning, that has never seen any cleaning more advanced than a quick rinse of the glass jar.

Rancid oils? Like a “break-room-at-11am”-flavor?