Update 10.02.2023:
I remixed the rotor with the toroidal design :) Feel free to test ist out!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5846249
Update 23.02.2023:
NEW PULLING RODS!
Some had proplems with a breaking pulling Rod. So I beefed up the old one (Classic+) and also designed 2 totaly new ones (Ergonomic & Hook). For the Ergonomic one you will need a M3 x 20+ Screw for assembling. I tested all with PLA in the local kindergarten and they withstand even rough abuse :P
If you have difficulties to find the function to separate the files into single objects go to printable. There I uploaded all parts individually and put them into folders. (This is not possible at thingiverse and I don´t want to have all parts flying around :P)
https://www.printables.com/model/227852-strong-flying-propeller-pull-copter-no-supports
Hi
Recently my son came home very sad because a friend had such a fancy flying propeller from the 1€ shop.
Of course I had to sit down directly at the computer and after the first prototype was already well working I designed an improved version.
This toy should be very stable and last a long time! Also, it's very easy to use and grab for the smaller ones among us!
I used the technique already tested in my designs like the math train or the finger skateboard.
You can print all parts without support and put the parts together very easy. I recommend to use a small drop of glue to secure the whole assembly in place. This drop should be located between the axis and the gear.
It is not necessary but I lubricated all mechanical pieces with some paraffin wax. A drop of Oil will do the job too but may be messy.
Put the pulling rod in the place marked by the arrows. Otherwise the propeller wants to fly downwards.
Have fun! :)
Note: The prop will fly long distances/ very high. So better use it in a place without trees and no obstacles. Hold the Toy away from the face! - otherwise the propeller will fly into it :D
Assembly Video:https://studio.youtube.com/video/0pYzTrsRqqw/edit
"Important" Print instructions/ tipps:
Axis: Print the axis with at least 4-5 perimeters!
Propeller: Print the propeller with not too brittle material! (I used tough PLA or even better: Nylon + Carbon Filament) - Low infill: The lighter the better ,-)
I also tried TPU. It works but if you pull too hard it may deform too much and cause a malfunction. The lower you choose the layer hight the less friction the prop will cause. (I printed in 0,15mm)
Gear & Bearings: Use filament that can withstand kinda low tolerances. PLA will do the job.
If you have a seam cut it off after printing. To avoid a bad surface dont "fill the gaps".
Pulling rod: I printed it with some tough PLA. But the less brittle the better I guess ,-)
It is possible to separate the file into parts with your slicer ,)
I also like to break the corners of all parts by scraping over these areas with a knife. That makes the action smooth and gives a good handfeel :)
Attention: Don't use damaged Propeller!! A disbalance in the Rotation might destroy the Propeller and parts could fly Off. Especially with brital Material Like PLA.
Small Update & Parts explanation:
Added a 200 mm Pulling Rod for smaller Printbeds. (Original is 240mm)
Added a 4 bladed Prop. Will be a little more robust but the 3 bladed one works better.
Update 06.07.2022
Added a new (hopefully) more aerodynamik prop. This one flies even higher!
(Added in standard download & single)
Small Update 08.07.2022
Changed the axis tolerances from 0,15 mm per side to 0,2 mm so you will have less problems to assemble the parts if your printer isnt calibrated propperly ;_)
If you like my work, I would be very happy about a small tip :)
https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/MeisterEdel
Hello all. I am very new to this but it is all very cool to me. I ran into a problem and I am not sure how to troubleshoot it. I downloaded a simple pull string helicopter off thingiverse. After running through the slicer software, the estimated build time is 131 hours. Relative to it’s size this seems insane. If I “run the simulated build”, there are long holds on one of the interior walls. I am hesitant to just “try it” and see if the pauses are a software thing that does not translate to the hardware. I am not sure how to break it down from here. Any advice?
and just posta screenshot of the sliced model that the slicer should show you, makes it much easier to recognize trivial errors like wrong orientation.
Creality ender 5 s1
Creality slicer
High detail profile
(Infill % 15, speed 100, nozzle temp 205, bed temp 60, z axis 0.1)
PLA
These were the default with no changes.
I am not sure what other parameters can be changed.
I will post a screenshot tonight. I did notice that 99% of the time is on the outer wall, this is where I noticed the pauses when I simulate the print.
Can you give us your basic info:
and just posta screenshot of the sliced model that the slicer should show you, makes it much easier to recognize trivial errors like wrong orientation.
Here is what I remember.
Creality ender 5 s1 Creality slicer High detail profile (Infill % 15, speed 100, nozzle temp 205, bed temp 60, z axis 0.1) PLA These were the default with no changes.
I am not sure what other parameters can be changed.
I will post a screenshot tonight. I did notice that 99% of the time is on the outer wall, this is where I noticed the pauses when I simulate the print.