Here’s an archive link for a windows binary: https://archive.org/download/ryujinx-1.1.1403-win_x64

PS5 Pro is going for 800 EUR so I’ve picked these parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BnpTsh, and it’s almost spot on how much it costs after converting it into USD. (800 EUR = 881.83 USD)

PEI is one of the best surfaces you will ever find to print on, although I believe one type of filament (I think a variation of PLA?) sticks too well and can damage the PEI trying to take prints off…

That’s PETG. I avoid using smooth PEI plates like fire when PETG is loaded. Even after swapping the filament to PLA, little bits of residual PETG can still stick leaving a shadow on the plate. Textured PEI is mostly fine, but single layer stuff like brims are a pain to get off.

From what I understand it tests the minimum retraction distance you need to avoid stringing. The lower you get the less retraction you need. For example, for me usually it stops stringing around 0.4mm retraction (that’s 4mm measured from the hot plate), but found that in real conditions the default 0.6mm works better. I don’t find this test too useful, for me it fails to demonstrate the spectrum between too little and too much retraction, a feature I appreciate in the pressure advance tower. Apparently the moment it stops stringing, anything after that won’t show you anything new and it’s best to stop the print. Either that or I fail to notice any defects when the retraction is relatively high.

Lead ain’t that dangerous. Just take it out and dispose of it like you do with normal batteries. Clean your hands afterwards and you’re dandy. As for the clock, the battery contacts, and whatever they were attached to, are likely eaten away, but I can’t say that for certain from this photo. If you’re lucky and they’re mostly intact, some IPA scrubbing and a dip in vinegar, and a bit more scrubbing, should take most of the crust away. That rust though, probably some vinegar, maybe a deoxidating agent (like navy jelly?) could clean it off. Even cleaning all of it doesn’t guarantee that it’ll work any way.

There’s a request made here. Haven’t seen devs reply yet though.

I’m thinking about getting some of those activated alumina beads. I’ve heard they are both more efficient at absorbing moisture and can be recycled indefinitely without degrading. Sounds like a perfect fit for your setup.

Dry and then store in a controlled environment. I’m using those bog standard cereal containers from Amazon (3,7-4l container should do for 1kg spools). Add some desiccant, spool rollers and a hygrometer and you have yourself a semi-permanent home for your spools. Mine show somewhere between 10% and 15% humidity, so that’s pretty good considering that previously just leaving a spool in open air for a single longer print caused it to soak enough moisture to ooze and string by the end of the print, and that’s in “only” over 40% humidity. So yeah, highly recommended.

Mind you that PICTRS__API_KEY is the wrong variable, and should be PICTRS__SERVER__API_KEY. I’ve noticed it when Lemmy Thumbnail Cleaner complained about the api key being incorrect. Follow the repo page and check if your variables are correct.

Yep. While mods them self don’t cost nothing, in general I’d say (compared to what a cigarette smoker would spend) this activity is relatively cheap. Biggest cost for me is flavoring and nicotine. The rest is negligible.

As a vaper I support this notion. Disposable vapes should go. Pods with replaceable cartridges and preferably also replaceable batteries (yes, those exist) should take their place. I’m mostly a RBA guy, so my only waste is a bit of cotton, some glycol/glycerin and a bit of wire. Batteries will also need replacing, but not for another few years. Personally I hate pointless waste. Throwing away something that’s usable is a sin in my eyes. If you won’t use it at least let somebody else use it instead, that includes the perfectly good components in disposables that get thrown away like trash.

Two that I know of that made decent games is K-D Lab that made Perimeter and Vangers (both open sourced and recently remastered), and Nikita responsible for the Parkan series. They’re not by any means greatest hits but they’re unique and worth checking out.

EDIT: And oh, Pathologic by Ice-Pick Lodge too, but I haven’t played those. Those seem funky and definitely not for everyone.

EDIT2: There’s apparently a list of Russian made games on Wikipedia , good to know.

I tried liking KF2 but it just lacks the crispness and the atmosphere of KF1. I also missed the shop lady with her opening shop in the weirdest locations in between rounds. So yeah, KF2 lacks charm IMO and I still like KF1 more even on its aging UE2.5 engine. I don’t think KF3 will find my interest, with all the multiplayer games going “live service” and all.

I know that some mods had issues with Skyrim from GOG as it uses a separate, different from Steams version, config directory. Some mods didn’t account for that and didn’t work. I’m assuming a similar issue with Fallout 4? Oddly enough older Fallouts and TES games use normal dirs so I don’t know why did they decide it’s a good idea.

The model in question has metal screw bosses.

That’s pretty cool. I wish more devices had brass inserts. I kinda hate the idea of screwing into plastic. Anyway, do whatever you feel you need. I don’t think it’d get loose even with daily usage, but I might be wrong.

What does that solve? Isn’t the whole purpose of a threadlocker to keep the screw in place? I can imagine that plastics are soft enough that they keep the screws in place on their own. As far as I know, and from my own experience, there’s been no trouble with screws loosening over time in those consoles, so I don’t know how adding threadlocker would help.

Overtightening screws does that. Plus, transparent plastics tend to be more brittle, so you have to be more careful. Been re-shelling some gameboys and the exact issue cropped up with shells cracking at the screw holes. Guy I follow on youtube recommends screwing them all the way then loosening them a quarter of a turn. Might help lessen the stress.

Not the person you’ve replied to, but I’ve got a Roborock Q7 Max. It’s cheap and relatively simple. It’s got a LIDAR and proximity sensors, but no obstacle avoidance or stair/cliff detection and no camera. From what I can see it’s also silent (no network activity) even though it’s bound to my WiFi. After months of using it I’d say its been a great choice to splurge on. Never had one, never thought I’d need one, but after seeing dust settling on every bit of the floor every day… I got tired of sweeping.

Exactly this. You’d be surprised how much dust it can collect. After a week or two in my small home it can easily collect a fistful of dust, and that’s just from me alone.

I hear you. There’s always Valetudo. Get yourself a supported vacuum and install Valetudo whenever you feel the need. Had my robot for half a year but haven’t come around to doing it just yet. Maybe after its warranty runs out.